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Dripbox 60w disassembly
#1
its nt totally obvious, bu having just done it, the process is fresh in my mind, so lets go for it

taking it apart..why? perhaps there's juice where there shouldnt be, you're curious, or want to strip the paint
tool needed : T6

step 1: remove the two T6 screws either side of the device, near the top
step 2; remove the 3 T6 screws around the 510 connection
step 3: remove battery, juice bottle
step 4Confusedtick an atty on top, about a thread or two in, and pull up...you'll be able to have a look inside the guts, but unfortunately, it wont come part (yet)
step 5: remove the white goop holding the power button pcb in place (just pick at it with a toothpick or something)..be carefu though of the little led's and shit
step 6: lift power button board upwards and out of the way (its still attached with 4 short wires
step 7: remove power button plastic assembly (this is the bit you actually press on to fire the device..the little smoked window). Its just sitting it the recess now.
step 8: (the most difficult bit) The negative battery wire has to be desoldered. You'll find it just t the side of the battery positive connection. Its a black wire that sits in a recess made in a brass bushing that is press-fitted to the body, and then soldered in place. Problem1: the solder is high-temp solder. I managed ot melt some normal solder on top of it so it got to the point that the negative wire could slide out of the recess/slot.
negative wire removed, go to step 9
step 9: push entire assembly up and out of there, yay!

assembly is the reverse, however you'll have fun with the negative wire again. I added more normal solder and then just soldered the wire in place on top of the bushing. The body of the mod acts like a massive heat sink which doesnt help much..I suspect at the factory the wire is soldered to the bushing first, then the bushing is press-fitted. We dont have that luxury:-(

I needed to clean mine because I had a habit of spilling some juice and the neck of the bottle was always a bit wet..and this eventually worked it way up the device such that the power button felt slippery.

vape on..
Box, check...juice, check...new battery, check.....SQUONK! Big Grin
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#2
I might have to follow this on my dripbox 160. Suddenly TC does not work - temp display stays at the set temperature and fired watts never rises above 0.2W. Tried another atty that used to work and it shows 9.99ohm resistance so looks like I need to look at the 510.
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